<P> The 1922 British Mount Everest expedition was the first mountaineering expedition with the express aim of making the first ascent of Mount Everest . This was also the first expedition that attempted to climb Everest using bottled oxygen . The expedition would attempt to climb Everest from the northern side out of Tibet . At the time, Everest could not be attempted from the south out of Nepal as the country was closed to Western foreigners . </P> <P> The 1921 British Mount Everest reconnaissance expedition had seen the whole eastern and northern surroundings of the mountain . In searching for the easiest route, George Mallory, who was also a participant of the 1924 expedition (and the only person on all three expeditions in 1921, 1922 and 1924), had discovered a route which, according to his opinion, would allow an attempt on the summit . </P> <P> After two unsuccessful summit attempts the expedition ended on the third attempt when seven porters died as the result of a group - induced avalanche . Not only had the expedition failed to reach the summit but it also marked the first reported climbing deaths on Mount Everest . The expedition did however establish a new world record climbing height of 8,326 metres (27,320 ft) during their second summit attempt, which was subsequently exceeded in the 1924 expedition . </P>

Who is noted as the first british citizen to attempt mount everest