<P> This strict label policy can lead to confusion, especially in cases where towns share names with appellations . If the town of origin of a product contains a controlled appellation in its name, the producer (who is legally required to identify the place of origin on the product label but legally prohibited from using the full town's name unless the product is an approved AOC product) is enjoined from listing anything more than a cryptic postal code . For example, there are a dozen townships in l'Aude that have Cabardès in their names, several of which are not even within the geographical boundaries of the Cabardès AOC . Any vineyard that produces wine in one of those towns must not mention the name of the town of origin on the product labels . </P> <P> There are currently over 300 French wines entitled to the designation AOC on their label . </P> <P> Legislation concerning the way vineyards are identified makes recognizing the various AOCs very challenging for wine drinkers not well - acclimated to the system . Often, distinguishing classifications requires knowledge of esoteric label laws such as "Unless the wine is from a Premier Cru vineyard, the vineyard name must be printed in characters no more than half the height of the ones used for the village name" </P> <P> On the other hand, while the process of label approval is enforced to the millimetre, the quality control for the wine in the bottle is much less strict . While a blind taster must approve the wine for it to receive AOC classification, this tasting often occurs before the product is even bottled, and by a local expert who may well have ties to the local vintners . Even if the taster is objective, the wine sample may not be representative of the actual product, and there is almost no way to verify that the finished bottled product is the same as the original AOC sample . </P>

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