<P> When waves travel into areas of shallow water, they begin to be affected by the ocean bottom . The free orbital motion of the water is disrupted, and water particles in orbital motion no longer return to their original position . As the water becomes shallower, the swell becomes higher and steeper, ultimately assuming the familiar sharp - crested wave shape . After the wave breaks, it becomes a wave of translation and erosion of the ocean bottom intensifies . </P>

When waves approach the shore and enter shallow water