<P>... although an acclimatised lowlander can survive for a time on the summit of Everest without supplemental oxygen, one is so close to the limit that even a modicum of excess exertion may impair brain function . </P> <P> Reinhold Messner was the first climber to break the bottled oxygen tradition and in 1978, with Peter Habeler, made the first successful climb without it . In 1980, Messner summited the mountain solo, without supplemental oxygen or any porters or climbing partners, on the more difficult northwest route . Once the climbing community was satisfied that the mountain could be climbed without supplemental oxygen, many purists then took the next logical step of insisting that is how it should be climbed . </P> <P> The aftermath of the 1996 disaster further intensified the debate . Jon Krakauer's Into Thin Air (1997) expressed the author's personal criticisms of the use of bottled oxygen . Krakauer wrote that the use of bottled oxygen allowed otherwise unqualified climbers to attempt to summit, leading to dangerous situations and more deaths . The disaster was partially caused by the sheer number of climbers (34 on that day) attempting to ascend, causing bottlenecks at the Hillary Step and delaying many climbers, most of whom summitted after the usual 14: 00 turnaround time . He proposed banning bottled oxygen except for emergency cases, arguing that this would both decrease the growing pollution on Everest--many bottles have accumulated on its slopes--and keep marginally qualified climbers off the mountain . </P> <P> The 1996 disaster also introduced the issue of the guide's role in using bottled oxygen . </P>

What is the name of mount everest in nepal